Assiotor to



Jan. 3, 1928. 1,655,124

H. A. BALLARD UPPER CREAS I NG Filed Aug. 9. 1923 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Jz/FxJan. 3, 1928.

H. A. BALLARD UPPER CREASING Filed Auz. 9, 1923 2 Sheets-Sheet 2Patented Jan. 3, 1928 'UITED STATES PATENT OFFICE HARRIE A. BALLARD, FBOFJION, MAS SAOH'USETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE IMACHINERYCORPORATION, OF PATTERSON, NEW JERSEY, A. CORPURATION OF NEW JERSEY.

UPPER CREASING.

Application filed August 9, 1923.

This invention relates to upper creasing and more particularlyto theforming of an upstanding crease longitudinally of the toe oi a shoe.

In certain classes of shoes, especially those wherein a one-piece tip isused, it is desired to provide an upstanding crease extendinglongitudinally of the toe of the ewe as a.

decoration. This crease is known as a trouser crease, and it may extendas far forward as the welt crease of the shoe and as far rearward as thevery top of the tongue. According to the dictates of fashion and thedesires of the manufacturer, the

length of the crease will be varied between these limits. it such acrease is made in the upper before it is made up into a shoe, then it isiikely to become distorted and perhaps eliminated or entirely smoothedout in the lasting operation. rlccordingly, it is de sirable to providesome way ct creasing the upper after it has been incorporated in afinished shoe. In endeavoring to secure an upstanding crease of thischaracter, various 2 arrangements have been suggested which have beenunsatistactory for the reason that 7 they have always involved a rubbingaction tending to burnish or glaze the surface of the upper adjacent thecrease, thereby detracting from the desired appearance.

To avoid the disadvantagesresulting from the arrangements heretoforeproposed, one object of the invention isto provide an improved method ofproducing a crease in the *upper of a shoe whereby said rease may berendered permanent and any glazing or burnishing of the adjacent partsof the up per avoided. y

According to this novel method a section of the upper along the line ofthe desired crease is pinched together, and, according to the preferredprocedure, a portion of the upper is first raised by pressure fromwithin the shoe as by means of a supporting rib above the level of theremainder of the upper, is then pressed closely against the sides of therib, and is thenseparated from the rib and pinched still more closelytogetl'ier.

v Another object of the invention is to providc an improved machine for!forming a crease in the upper of a finishedshoe, such that the creasewill stay permanently raised above the adjacent surface.

lVith this object in view, an important Serial No. 658,471.

feature of the invention comprises an arrangement. in which a supportingtree is provided with a thin rib 01' blade, whose longitudinal curvaturecorresponds to the curvature of the portion of the shoe which is to becreased, and a co-operating presser having a complementary curvature andadapted to press the upper over the blade and then against its sides.Preferably the presser member will be grooved to receive a part of theblade.

Another important: feature of the invention relates to the arrangementof an improved creasing tool whereby a rubbing action between it and theouter surface of the upper is avoided. tratedin the drawings and hereindescribed, this result is secured by dividing the grooved creasingtoolor presser member longitudi nally through the center of the groove andproviding means for separating the parts of the grooved tool prior tothe time when it is pressed against the shoe, or the leather of the shoeis forced up into the groove of the tool. Means are also provided forbringing together the co-operating partsof the pressermembers to pinch astrip of the leather into an upstanding crease which will be. permanent.

For a more complete understanding of the novel method and one form ofapparatus bymeans of Winch it may be earned out, reference is bad to thefollowing specification taken-in connection with the accom the line formof presser member;

Fig. 7 s a vertlcal section on the line 7-7 Fig. 8 1s anenlarged sectionshowing the parts of thepresser member gripping a piece of Work againstthe upstanding rib or blade on the supporting tree; 7

In the construction illus- Fig. 9 is a similar view showing the parts ofthe presser member pinching a strip of the upper into an upstandingcrease; and

Fig. 10 shows one type of shoe in which a trouser crease has beenformed.

it supporting frame 10 is provided with an overhanging arm 12, Whoseouter end 1% constitutes a vertical bearing for a sliding plunger 16which is provided with a roller 18 at its upper end and wnich supports apresser member 20 at its lower end.

A work supporting tree 22 is detachably secured to the overhanging arm12, and this tree is provided with a longitudinal rib or blade 24 havingsubstantially parallel sides. The tree is preferably made with atriangular cross section, as shown in Fig. 4, to reduc its height whilesecuring the necessary strength. Preferably the rib is formed by meansof a separate blade inserted in a slot in the tree 22. This blade isslightly tapered alongits top edge, as shown in Pi 8, so that .it may beseparated easily from the leather and is formed with a rounded edge inorder that it may not cut the leather.

Vertical movement of the plunger 16 to cause the presser member 20 toapproach and recede from the W01"; may be secured by means of anysuitable apparatus such as that illustrated in Patent No. 1,002,393,issued September .5, 1911, upon the application of John S. Hansen;Briefly this comprises a three-arm actuating lever 29 pivoted at 30 inthe frame of the machine and having its lower arm 32 provided with adepending bar 84 to which is adjustably secured a foot treadle To theupper arm 88 of said lever there is pivotally attached a horizontalmember 4.0 supported upon links 42 and pro- .vided with an extension 44:having a rounded end adapted to co-operate With the roller 18 todepressthe plunger. Springs 46 are 'ar ranged to retract the actuating member40, and by'reason of the connection of this me1nher with the upstandingarm 88, they Will rotate said lever in a counter-clockwise di rection,as viewed in Fig. 1. The third arm 50-01 said lever projects forwardlyand cooperates with a projection 52 extending inwardly from the plunger16 and overlying the end of the arm 50. i

Any suitable means may be provided for heating the presser member, andsuch means is indicated as comprising a metal piece 5% detachablysecured at 56 to the bearing 1% and provided with a vertical face 58resting against the face of the plunger 16. Electric cartridge heatingunits 60 may be utilized to supply heat to this member.

The presser member preferably comprises a bearing member 62 having avertical flange (Fig. 5) designed to be received in a slot in theplunger 16 and secured thereto by a set screw-'66. "The grippers and 72of the presser memberare provided with ears T4 and 76 by means of whichthey are pivotally mounted upon a longitudinal pivot 78 traversing saidbearing member (32. Recesses or notches are cut in the eo-operatingmeeting edges of the lower side of said grippers to term a groove 80running throughout the length ot the lower edge of said presser memberto receive and crease the fold oi an upper. 'lhese recessed grippers aredesigned to do press a portion of the upper over the rib and grip itthere againstas indicated in hi 8. it should be noted that thelongitudinal curvature of the rib 2-1.- is substantially the some as thecurvature of the rabbeted edges of the presser member, and that theextent of the presscr member will vary in accordance with the type ofshoe to be handled and the distance along the toe of the shoe over whichit is intendeo to erm a crease.

in order iroreibly to urge the grippers to nether, studs 82 and 84; aremounted in corresponding apertures in said grippers and are providedwith springs 86 bearing at one end age inst the nuts 88 on suit studsand at the other end against the side of the gripper. desired, setscrews 90 may be used for intaining the position of the heads oil? d suds.

When the presser member is being lowered to push the major portion oithe upper below the top of the upstanding rib 24', it is desirable toseparate the grippers in order to avoid any rubbing action andconsequent burnishing of the leather, and for this purpose there isprovided a headed stud or button 2, (Fig. 5) the shank oit' which passesthrough the gripper 70 and is arranged with its head bearing against thegripper T2. 11 hand lever 9% is pivot-ally mounted 9b formed on exteriorof the T0 and is arranged with a latu'al portion 98 2) bearing again 1;nl: of the button 92 and another lateral portion 100 bearing against theface of the gripper C 0. The deflection of said lever 713; toward the tof the machine will cause sepairont ration the grippers.

For some purposes i'nay be for factory to constriiact the device in then .inner illustrated in (S and 7." in "which one gilppe 1.5.4 ()1 illGpicsrcr 111G111) rOI'liiQCl integrally with the supportin while theother gripuer 1T0 is means or the headed studs Springs 188 and a. lever19'- tunctiors flange 16% supported by 132 and 153i. perform their in asimilar manner as fer-red lorm, and the :ncetin" grippers are grooved at180 t are the meeting edges of the gripp of the preferred embodiment.

When the type of sho blucher such as is illusti 10, it may be desired tothe extreme end of the to oeiug creased is a ted at in Fig. orm a creasefrom through the vamp inc and whole length of the tongue. In such a casethe shoe will be mounted upon the supporting tree 22 in the positionindicated in Fig. 1, and the operator will depress the treadle to causea rotation of the three-way lever 29 and consequent depression of theforwardly extending member 50. This will allow the plunger 16 carrying;the presser member 20 to fall of its own weight and the operator will atthe same time deflect the handle of the lever 94: toward the front so asto open by a substantial amount the groove 80 between the grippers and72. As the operator continues to depress the treadle to cause a rotationof the actuating lever 29, the extension 44- will come in contact withthe roller 18 on the plunger 16, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 1,and forcibly depress the separated grippers against the work at eachsideo'f the rib 2a of the supporting tree. This will raise a strip ofthe work into the enlarged groove80, and whenthe operator then releasesthe handle of the lever 94, the springs 86 will cause the grippers 70and 72 to press the work tightly against the side edges of the rib orblade 24E whicu extends lengthwise of and is shaped complementarily tothe groove in said presser member. After ashort interval, he willpartially release the treadle of the machine and allow the springs 46 toretract the extension n and slightly to raise the plunger through the coaction of the parts 50 and 52. Partially owing to the fact that thepresser member 20 is heated, the tendency is for the work to beseparated from the rib 2a and to remain in gether and thereby to pinch,together the raised strip of the upper and permanently to set theupstanding crease 112 in the shoe. After the work has remained withinthe groove of the presser members for the desired intervahthe operatorwill again dethe toe of a finished shoe, relatively sepashoe, andconsequently there is no bur11ishi ing or streaking of the work. It willbe obvious that the shape of the longitudinal curvature of the pressermember and that of the rib 24 may be varied to suit the particular styleof shoe to be treated. Minor changes may be made in the manner ofcarrying out the method or of constructing a machine without departingfrom the spirit of the in vention. i

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent oi the United States is 1. The method ofproducing a crease in the toe of a finished shoe which consists inraising a portion of the upper along the line of the desired crease bypressure from within the shoe and pinching together the raiser portionso that an upstanding ridge or crease will be formed.

2. The method oi producing a crease in the upper of a finished shoewhich consists in raising a portion of the upper above the level of theremainder of the upper, and applying heated members to exert lateralpres sure against the sides of the raised portion to form an upstandingcrease in the leather.

3. The method of producing a crease in the upper of a shoe whichconsists in supporting the upper upon a rib, pressing the upper closelyagainst the sides of the rib, separating the upper from the rib, andpinching together the portion of the upper against which pressure hasbeen exerted.

4. in a machine for forming an upstancb ing crease along the toe of afinished shoe, a supporting free adapted for insertion within the shoe,.aid tree being provided with a thin rib or blade whose longitudinalcurvature corresponds to the curvature of the portion of the shoe whichis to be creased, said rib having substantially parallel sides and beingarranged lengthwise of the shoe, and opposed means disposed outside theshoe for pressing the upper over said blade and then against its sides,said means having a curvature which is complementary to the curvature ofthe blade.

In an upper creasing machine, a sup porting tree provided with a narrowrib, said tree being adapted for insertion in a finished shoe, a groovedpresser member arranged ior cooperation ,with said ribbed tree, meanstoenlarge the groove of said presser member, and means to bring thepresser member-into co-operative relation with the tree.

In a machine for forming a crease along rable grippers disposed outsidethe shoe and. means arranged for insertion within the shoe constructedand arranged to present a portion of the upper of theshoe in the spacebetween said grippers. I

7. lln a machine for forming a creasein the toe of a finished shoe, aribbed supporting member, and divided presser means disposed outside ashoe andhaving a pivoted jaw, said presser means being constructed andarranged to force a portion of the up per of the shoe over the rib ofthe support.

8. In an upper creasing machine, a di-" vided presser member the partsof which are notched to provide co-operating recesses of a limiteddepth. along their meeting edges arranged to receive and crease a foldof an upper.

9. In an upper creasing machine, a divided presser member having twoparts the corners of which are each cut away to'provide co-operatingrecesses or" a limited vided presscr member having two parts theadjacent faces of which are rabbeted to provide co-operating recesses ofa lin ited depth along their meeting edges arranged to receive andcrease a told of an upper, means for urging the sections ot said pressermen ber together, and means tor moving said sections apart.

12. In an upper creasing machine, a divided prcsser member the parts ofwhich are provided with co-opera" recesses of a limited depth alongtheir meeting edges arranged to receive and crease a told of an upper,and means for forcing the work into the groove formed by said recesses.

13. In an upper creasing machine, a presser member divided into grippersprovided with copperatimr recesses along the meeting edges of saidgrippers, a rib for forcing the Work into the groove formed by therecesses in the adjacent edges of the grippers, means urging saidgrippers together, and means for removing the rib constructed andarranged to allow the work t remain in the groove termed in thegrippers, whereby said-grippers will be allowed to approach closelytogether and firmly impress an upstanding crease in' the surf see of theWork.

14. In a machine for forming a crease in a finished shoe, creasingmembers arranged to be disposed outside the shoe and having rablooted.ed 'es shaoed to'conform to the currature of the portion of the wort: tobe creased, and'means for moving said members apart to allow theintroduction therebetween ot a portion of theworl; to be creased.

15. Ina machine for forming a crease in a finished shoe, creasingmembers arranged to be disposed outside the shoeand having rabbets alongtheir cooperating edges shaped to conform to the curvature of theportion of the Work to be creased, means including a lever forseparating saidinembers to allow the introduction therebetween of aportion of the Work to be creased, and'resilient means urgin saidcreasing members together.

' 16. In a machine for forming acrease in a finished. shoe, creasingmembers arranged outside a shoe and shaped to conform to the curvatureof the portion of the work to be creased, means for separating saidmembers to allow the introduction therobetwcen 0t tie work to becreased, and a similarly shaped ribbed member arranged to be insertedwithin the shoe and to UO-OPQl'Lll'C with said creasing members inintroducing the work within the creasing members.

1?. 7 a much forming a crease Homily of the toe of a finished shoe, oveda gro creasing member shaped to con fo m to the curvature ot the toe oithe shoe,

.i H i bepillticGtr DUL JJ (v in the voile in an unpcr creasing machine,a press-er uremier comprising g3..lP 'PO1S plO min i'- recesses tiorminga,

:o operatio iove along; 1' e n'lecting edges of said grip pers, a "udpassing through said ssion spring surrounding red to force the gripperstotoe passing through one grip- -ainst the inner taco ot' the pe id ahand lover pivoted to gripper constructed and arranged said button inorder to separate 's to enlarge the groove.

20. in an upper creasing machine, a supporting frame provi ,c l with atree adapted to support a. finished shoe, a plunger 1nov able saidframe, a creas no member sup ported on said plunger, aid creasing memberbeirr provided with a movable part, means for moving e id 1 ter partaway from the other part ot he creasing i'uember to 'llow theintroduction of a piece of the worl; therebet veen, and means for urgingthe parts of said creasing men; ver to ard one another.

21. In an upper creas' hine, a supporting frame, tree on said i laptedsaid I for insertion in finished shoe, said tree being provided vi'ilh ablade shaped to form a tree conforming to the curvature do of HARE-IE A.KALLARD.

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